Helping a Fearful Dog

Michael Baugh, CPDT-KA, CDBC

(from All Things Dog blog)

Dear Michael:

My wife and I have a very sweet, intelligent, food-loving, 2 year old female Rough Collie.  She is great on a leash, eager to please, and generally very good in public.  I grew up with Collies and am familiar with the common tendencies of the Herding Breeds, but am having trouble succeeding with some of her training.

Lady gets very nervous when guests come to the house, especially strangers.  She does the typical barking and herding, but also has trouble relaxing for hours when other people are in the home.  She will nip at our guest incessantly when they walk around the house.  I know that she has watchdog qualities, but I worry that she will snap when we have guests (especially children) over to the home.

We have had her since she was 12 weeks old, and we have always had visitors.  She does not seem to be adapting at all.  How can we exorcise this nervous energy and enjoy having people over again.  Thank you for your help!
Bill H.

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Dear Bill:

First, I commend you for asking good and thoughtful questions on Lady’s behalf.  I work with a lot of fearful dogs here in Texas.  I also know a lot of my training colleagues work similar cases around the world.  You are not alone; and yes there is hope for Lady.

Despite our best efforts socializing our dogs and familiarizing them with the quirky ins and outs of the human world, sometimes it’s just not enough.  As our dogs grow up, we begin to notice their developing sensitivities and phobias.  It’s important that we address these fears intelligently and immediately, but also gently.  You are correct to be concerned that fearful behavior can sometimes develop into offensive (aggressive) behavior.  That doesn’t always happen.  Nevertheless, the time to act is now.

I often recommend hiring a qualified behavior consultant at the end of my blog posts.  This time, I’m recommending it up front.  You don’t have to do this alone, and you probably shouldn’t.  Use the link above to find a Certified Dog Behavior Consultant in your area.  I also recommend you visit fearfuldogs.com and download the e-book, Guide to Living with and Training a Fearful Dog.

Certainly, my response here will not take the place of working with a qualified dog trainer / behavior consultant in person.  Still, I want to offer my thoughts and input.  Your goals with Lady when it comes to interacting with visitors are twofold.  1) Teach her how to behave when people come over.  Which skills you teach are up to you.  Sit, coming when called and stay all play a role in proper greetings.  I exclusively recommend reward-based training, and with good reason.  I’ll expand on that below.  2) Teach Lady that new people in general, especially in her home, are good news for her.  Something amazingly good should happen for Lady every time a person comes to your home.  The way to a dog’s heart really is through her stomach.  I often suggest visitors give my clients’ dogs “welcome gifts” when they arrive (New person = cheese or chicken).  Giving her a delicious stuffed Kong Toy when visitors are in the house is a nice approach as well.  Here is where your reward-based training comes in as well.  If you are using food to teach your dog basic manners when people come over, then she is also learning that it’s good news for her when people come over.  Training starts and the treat bar opens.  Win – Win!  The dog knows how to behave and loves every second of it.

(click here to read the rest of this column)

 

 

A Look at Inter-Dog Aggression

Michael Baugh CPDT-KA, CDBC

Let’s start with the good news first.  Most dogs are not intent on killing each other.  That’s not to say they don’t have conflicts.  They do; and those conflicts can sometimes be scary, noisy and even hurtful.  Still, in most cases dogs don’t settle the score with fatal consequences.

Play can sometimes look like aggression

In fact, dogs give each other plenty of signals when they are upset about something.  They growl, snarl, lung and even snap wildly at the air.  You’ll hear some trainers refer to that as “ritualized aggression.”  Think: argument or the occasional sign language you see in Houston traffic.  It’s unpleasant and communicative, but not dangerous in and of itself.  There are more subtle nuances as well, the slight change ear posture, facial expression, breathing rate, or pupil dilation.  When it comes to their own kind, most dogs are expert communicators.  The reason is simple and serious.  Real fighting is costly in terms of both risk and expended energy, so dogs have to be very good at resolving things without physical conflict.

If we step back a bit we can see most inter-dog aggression is about stopping some perceived threat and making the other dog go away.  Increased distance often resolves the argument.  This is most obvious in dogs who guard food and objects from other dogs.  It’s also evident in dogs who lack experience interacting with other dogs.  Animals, including the human animal, tend to reject things they don’t understand.  Dogs who aren’t familiar with their own kind keep their distance.  They might run away and hide as adolescents and young adults.  Later as more mature adults, they might put on an aggressive display or worse to make the other dog go away.  Either way, the message is clear.  “Stay away from me.”

The real trouble arises when the dogs can’t properly communicate, and when one or both of them can’t retreat.  They’re trapped.  This is especially true in the case of dogs who are specifically aggressive towards other dogs while on leash.  It is, perhaps, the most common form of inter-dog aggression.

Jean Donaldson (1996) first identified the on-leash cycle of aggression. It begins with well-meaning people who take their new dog or puppy on a walk for the first time.  The dog, naturally curious, pulls toward other dogs he sees out in the wide world.  He may even bark.  The owner, frightened or angered by the pulling, yanks back on the leash yelling “heel” or “no bark.”  Trying to stop the problem, the person might invest in a choke or prong “training collar” for his dog.  Then, even if the dog begins to pull less, the owner keeps tension on the leash every time another dog is near just in case.  As the weeks and months roll by, the dog learns that whenever he’s on leash and other dogs are around things get a little scary and maybe painful.  He’s unable to investigate his own kind, and his owner is freaking out (or at the very least anxious).  Before long the pulling and barking turns into lunging and growling, plus more yanking on the leash and yelling.  Now dogs on walks are no longer a curiosity but a trigger that something bad is going to happen.  We don’t know for sure what the dog is thinking, but we can imagine it might be “Get out of here dog, you’re making my owner freak out and he’s choking me.”  Imagine how much worse this becomes if the other dogs in the neighborhood are trapped in this same cycle.

Prevention is always easier than a cure.  Would that we could turn back time and stop the cycle before it starts.  We’d teach our young dogs and puppies how to meet other dogs while on a leash.  We would hold the leash without pulling it taught; we’d keep the line slack while two friendly dogs sniffed and circled each other.  On our best days, we’d chat up the neighbors and admire each other’s dogs.  Some days our dogs would play in an enclosed area off-leash.  Each day we and our dogs would become more social.

Fixing the problem takes more effort.  However, there is help.  Qualified dog trainers and veterinary behaviorists can outline a plan that includes protecting your dog from having more aggressive displays.   The plan will also involve reward-based training, teaching appropriate behavior while helping him feel better about his own kind.  The prognosis is usually better with younger dogs, but there is always hope.

Dogs, I’ve discovered, are amazingly adaptable.  At their core, they are social animals.  Even the hardest cases can and do show some improvement.  I guess that too is the good news.

(originally published in Houston PetTalk Magazine August 2011)

Children and Dogs

Guest Blogger, Curtiss Lanham CPDT-KA

Children and dogs: what a beautiful image that our minds immediately race to. The ‘Timmy and Lassie’ portrait is quickly conjured up…and they lived happily ever after. Not so fast…

The interesting thing is that kids don’t come pre-progrmmed to know how to interact properly with dogs, any more than dogs come pre-programmed to interact properly with kids. Read: adults now have to step-in and do something positive to ensure they do live happily ever after. So what can we adults do to ensure that our kids and our dogs will get along safely and happily? Here are three areas that we can concentrate on in this effort: Training-Socialization-Supervision

Training our Children

  • To respect the dog’s space, food and toys
  • To not treat the dog as a toy: don’t pull ears/tail/paws/nose, don’t ride the dog, don’t pull the dog around by it’s collar
  • To refrain from hugging dogs around the neck or put their face into the dog’s face
  • To refrain from screeching, screaming and squealing at the dog
  • To play ball, fetch, etc., but ONLY under adult supervision.

Training our Dogs

  • To know that children bring happy, fun things and are pleasant to engage with.
  • To trust that only good things happen with children
  • To respond to requests (sit, down, come, etc.) when asked by children so that they can communicate effectively together and strengthen their relationships
  • To understand the expectations of the household they live in

Socialize our Children

  • To dogs at an early age and expose them to a variety of breeds often and safely, but ONLY under adult supervision.

Socialize our dogs

  • To children at an early age (3 weeks to 3 months of age, if possible). Expose them to a variety of children often and safely, but ONLY under adult supervision. These meetings must always have a ‘happy ending’ for the puppy and the child.

Supervise

  • All interactions between children and dogs
  • Be watchful to ensure the children do not mishandle/mistreat the dog
  • Be watchful to ensure the dog is not stressed during the encounter: Stress signals may include some/ all of the following: yawning, lip licking, turning head/eyes away, lowering head/ears/tail, slinking away, crouching/hiding. Distance increasing signals by the dog may include some/all of the following: lip lifting, low growl, snarling, showing teeth, air snapping, etc. If any of these are observed, end the session immediately, quietly and calmly exit the child from the dog. Refrain from punishing the dog.
  • Ensure proper meet/greet by child
  • If you cannot supervise then exit the child from the dog so there is no possibility of improper encounter by either the dog or child

By putting this plan into action with your children and dogs your family will be on the road to loving, safe relationships. Relationships that transcend even the ‘Lassie and Timmy’ connection!

Houston/Katy Dog Trainer Curtiss Lanham, CPDT-KA is the co-owner of dogsmart, a Fulshear based canine behavior counseling and training group.