postive reinforcement dog training houston katy tx Archives | Page 6 of 7

Crate Complications

Michael Baugh CPDT-KA, CDBC

To: Ask the dog trainer column

My little heinz 57 rescue dog is almost perfect. She is quite well crate trained but has 2 odd quirks. When I got her a new crate that has a solid lid we started having trouble with it. She does not have visibility through her roof; now it is solid. Everything is higher than her, when her crate is on the floor. She will whine until I take her out. If I put her in her old crate she is fine. How can I get her used to her new crate? I like this one better for our travels since it collapses easier. I thought she would like the side door that opens like a garage door but instead she fusses about the roof. She has always liked to be within sight of me, and this roof is an obstacle.

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Dear reader:

Change is always tricky business isn’t it? My Dad, for instance, loves his Grand Marquis. He’s had several over the past 20 some odd years. He won’t look at anything else. I, on the other hand, love change. Let’s mix things up a bit to keep life interesting; that’s my motto. Regardless of where you fall on this spectrum (or more importantly, where you dog falls) change can be a little stressful. Fortunately, you can help smooth out the transition.

First, make the new crate awesome for your dog. Assuming Skittles is willing to go in the crate, leave her in there for short visits of 10-15 minutes. (If she won’t even go in, watch this video to learn more about teaching her the ins and outs of crate training). Include a delicious stuffed Kong Toy to make the deal even better. I like to stuff Kong Toys with a full doggie meal, not just some peanut butter and a few treats. Let her out before the Kong is finished and when she’s not whining.

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Taking the Pull out of Walks

It’s one of the most natural things in the world for us human beings, walking side by side. Unfortunately it’s not at all natural for our dogs. Rarely do they walk that way on their own. When they do, it’s usually only momentarily. That’s what makes teaching loose leash walking so troublesome for so many folks.

Add to that, when our dogs pull we often follow. Dogs learn very early on that putting tension on the leash is just what they need to do to get where they are going. We don’t set any limits and as a result we actually reward our dogs for pulling.

What we really want to do is reward our dogs for walking next to us. I like to start off-leash (yes off-leash) in a safe enclosed area, like a fenced in back yard. Start by walking around the yard casually at your own pace; don’t say anything to the dog. As soon as your dog sidles up beside you simply say “yes” in a cheerful voice and offer him a special bit of food (cheese or boiled chicken is always nice). Then, continue walking on silently. When he comes up alongside you again, say “yes” again and deliver another treat. Before long, you’ll notice that your dog is walking with you with that expectant doggie grin of his. Keep saying “yes” and treating him until you can’t get rid of him.

All that’s left now is putting the leash on, right? Well, that’s almost right. Your dog will notice that things are different out in the wide world, and if he has a history of pulling he’s likely to fall right back into old habits. Here’s what you need to remember. If your dog pulls, stop. No one makes any forward progress when the leash is taught. Gently call your dog “this way” and begin walking the opposite direction with him. Because you’ve changed direction you’ll find that for a moment he’s right beside you where you want him. Say that magic word, “yes” and give him his special treat. Now you’re playing the same training game you were playing in the fenced in yard. The only difference is, you’re out front and the leash is on.

Let’s break this down, because your training really does need to be specific to work quickly. Dog pulls: stop. Change directions. Dog beside you: “yes” and treat. You may “yes” and treat multiple times so long as the dog is walking nicely beside you. For the time being, all of your walks should be this kind of training walk.

Now for the ultimate reward. What your dog really wants to do is sniff and explore. So after a nice spell of walking by your side, smile at your dog and say “yes, go sniff.” Then gleefully let him guide you around a bit for some doggie nose work. It’s okay to let him pull for a short while in this context. We call it a life reward. The dog actually gets what he wants by giving you the behavior you want (walking nicely). It’s powerful reinforcement, with a proven track record. It also happens to be the most natural thing in the world for your dog.

Houston Dog Trainer Michael Baugh, CPDT-KSA, CDBC specializes in behavior related to fearful and aggressive dogs.

Training Your Adopted Dog

_MG_4714 — Photo Courtesy: Robyn Arouty Photography

Michael Baugh, CPDT-KA, CDBC

HOUSTON – Training a dog from a shelter or rescue group isn’t all that different than training any other dog. What might be different is the individual dog’s learning history and life experience. Keep in mind, our dogs are always learning, so your dog has probably picked up some skills (perhaps not all desirable) along the way. He might also have some experience (or lack thereof) that will affect his behavior in your home.

( Read More on myfoxhouston.com)